Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
